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Thread: Deck Coatings best-worse

  1. #1
    Tolovar Guest

    Default Deck Coatings best-worse

    I am about to put 50 sq mtrs of deck down , treated pine ( price was right ) , has a roof but open to the weather on 3 sides.
    What coatings are best , water based or oil & what brands have worked/failed for you
    Appreciate your imput

  2. #2
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    Concrete.
    Cliff
    To be used for educational and/or medicinal purposes only.

  3. #3
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    For some reason some builders think treated pine is the toughest timber in the weather. Personally I will never never ever never ever triple never ever touch treated pine again.


    Sorry back on the topic. Over to you Freddie.
    Visit my website at www.myWoodwork.com.au

  4. #4
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    I'm with Wongo on this - TP decking is shit. I used it on a small deck and it moves and cups quite badly.

    I have about 100m2 HW deck that I have used both Organoil and Aussie Clear (I think that's what it's called). The organoil is great (nice smelling and nice finish) for a protected deck, however it didn't seem to last long when exposed (i.e. no roof or edges of roofed section). The "Aussie Clear" stuff seemed to last longer in the weather and I think it was cheaper.

  5. #5
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    Organoil is exclusive to Bunnies (pretty much) but they also sell the same product under the name Eco-oil.
    I just bought some of their Danish Oil and they gave me the heads up on the two names, one bulk container, two tins.
    Criticising others can protect the ego. Respecting others can be educational.





  6. #6
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    I have a 50m2 deck here, as well having built a shiltload of them over the years. I agree with Wongo, but if it's already down ..........

    We always used Sikkens Cetol. Oil based .My native hardwood deck has been down 7 years. The only place its a bit worn is around the landing and at the edges that cop the real sun and rain. I would have to sand it back to re-coat...that is a pain in the arse and the stuff costs about $500 for a 20lt drum.

    Intergrain Ultradeck is what I have been using lately. Waterbased. The rear step treads were done about 2 years ago and need recoating, they are in full tropical weather ie shitloads of extreme UV and them a few months of wet season rain. To recoat is a simple matter of a quick light sand then a four inch brush. A few coats will be dry in no time. The manufacturor recommends using REVIVA timber cleaner, but I do not bother with that. I recoated the front stairs in 15 minutes from go to whoa

    The finish is not quite as sexy as the Sikkens, but the oil based stuff is a bitch to recoat, especially after the kids drag the heavy table instead of lifting it , on an area that is otherwise in really good condition.

    If your boards are not already laid, it pays to give the pack a clear primer TO BOTH SIDES OF THE DECKING. I also keep a little brush and floodbrush the butt joins at the joist. especially in the weather, and even more importantly with softwood species.

    There are a few schools of thought with the fixing of boards. I ALWAYS PREDRILL the board and the joist. so many nails in a line just makes a continous wedge action and the joist will rot and the boards will lift. The code asks for 2 nails , each skewed 20 degrees in opposing fashion. If you have green joists or softwood joists you could use a T nailer, but I would still hand nail the joins. Punching nails deep can also let water pool in the nail head, I like them slightly under flush.

    There are some systems for secret or invisible fixing, but I reckon they would be cost prohibitive for the owner builder who has time to face nail the deck.

    Oh and you are a goose if you put the reeded side up, it is meant to be down

    Coverage is about 10/ 12 m2 for softwoods and about 12/14 m2 for hardwoods. ( thats Intergrain Ultradeck )

    Builders often tell fibs when it can be done quicker and pinus would be quicker.

    Another solution is to simply paint the boards house colour or a light brown. All the Government DHA housing here is like that and it certainly has merit.
    Not a word too many, not a word too few and not a word out of place. Sublime

  7. #7
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    I will post some nice pictures of the upper deck of my house. Its treated pine done by Mr builder.
    Visit my website at www.myWoodwork.com.au

  8. #8

    Default

    Steer clear of anything that puts a hard coating on the decking. You will regret it.

    Decking Oil, with or without stain, is the cheapest, easiest to apply and easiest to re-coat. Nothing will last forever. It will look great for a few months and then it will start to fade/wear off. So the most important criteria to me is that it is very easy to refinish. I do mine about once every couple of years.

    Hard finishes are also prone to peeling and they look crap when it starts to happen. My neighbour paid shit loads for this top range exterior deck finish and 2 years later it looks like shit. It will cost him heaps to re finish it because it will all have to be sanded back. After two years, mine just looks a bit patchy and worn.

    I would imagine T/P will just compound the problem.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bunyip View Post
    Organoil is exclusive to Bunnies (pretty much) ....
    Not any more.... when organoil got in trouble, Bunnies dumped their product at very cheap prices.
    Cliff
    To be used for educational and/or medicinal purposes only.

  10. #10
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    I used to get it (Organoil) at cost price from a mate who was the local distrubutor.

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    I build my decks in childcare centres so you can imagine the wear they get.

    I will only ever use SpaNDeck which is guaranteed to last for 2 years on a horizontal surface IE Decks. Oil lasts for a little over 6 months and as Silent says stay clear of the hard coating as they need to be removed before recoating.

    SpaNDecK is also good on TP as it colours it to look less like TP and more like HW.

    BTW your TP is not cca any more so it wont last as long as the old stuff. Be very careful that ALL end cuts are sealed before you lay the stuff.
    I'm Interested In Apathy

  12. #12
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    On treated pine:-
    Best = Solagard Decking Paint (It's like ordinary Solagard without the sticky surface)
    Worst = Oil. Total waste of money unless you buy it in 205L drums, which you will need if you are going to recoat it as often as it needs.
    When you are dead you don't know you are dead, it is only difficult for others. It's the same when you are stupid.

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    Ok 12 posts and we are still on topic. I worked on renovating some timber shingle roofs at Rottnest about 12 years ago. We scrubbed the roofs down with ...Oxalic?

    then flood brushed them with a mixture of linseed oil and something else... can't quite remember what it was ... maybe Turps... something cheap and readily available.

    I want to try it on a big Kwila outdoor setting I have that has been previously done with Organoil

    Ideas?
    Not a word too many, not a word too few and not a word out of place. Sublime

  14. #14
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    solagaurd is under rated and brilliant for decks
    Seeya,

    Bob
    www.wombatsawmill.com



    it's fun having alzheimer's, ya can hide you're own easter eggs, new job everday, meet new people all the time, new house every couple of days and a new wife every time ya wake up

  15. #15
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    Beautiful work Mr builder.

    It was so clever they way the built it. The fence cannot be dismantled unless totally destroyed. So there is no way to fix the deck and keep the fence.

    I pulled one board out, have a look at the bearers.
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