I’m off on a cruise around NZ over Christmas and when I get back I’m going to get a tractor.

Due to a farmer friend, I managed to get a really good price on a Kubota tractor with a 4-in-1 bucket, bale forks and counter weights.

I’m going the MX5100-HD-AU, which is a 50hp with hydro-static transmission. The above cost me $41k on the road (or paddock). This is about the same price I’d pay for a Kioti with shuttle-shift which isn’t as good as hydro-static.

I just have to give them money. Still some people spend that and more on a car.

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last edited by dog

I love the hst on all counts, incredibeley smooth and almost ejects you over the steering wheel when you take your foot off the pedal.
We got the industrial tyres, the ag tyres just rip everything to pieces and you should have a diff lock to get you out of the shit.
I shifted 2 truckloads of gravel in just over an hour last week and ours is only the 23hp.
One thing pointed out to me, buy 10l jerry cans, 20l get bloody heavy while holding them over the filler.

I use the 20L jerry cans but mine is only an 18HP so I can put my foot on the mower or the floor & rest the can on my knee.

We look like moving to a John Deere 36HP next, it has a drive over deck mower.

$29K without the bucket.

I thought Kubota had a drive over deck too although I believe the JD is easier to connect.
As for the filler, you can see mine on the ‘drivers’ side behind the grab rail which is a pain in the arse to get past, we don’t have a mower and the floor is too far away.
![alt text](0_1513641829010_DSC_0172 - Copy.JPG image url)

last edited by bunyip

Mine is in exactly the same place.
Stand beside the wheel & put yer right foot up on the floor.
It works best if you get the nozzle of the jerrycan in the filler first & then lift yer leg up under the tilted can.
If you try to start with it on yer knee, you are going to spill some when you tip it to start poring.

I already have 10l containers, wonder where the 50hp filler is?


I’ll just drive the tractor to the servo.

I’m actually thinking that I’ll get a 200 litre drum and a hand pump. Just take the drum up to the servo on the back of the ute. Off load it with said tractor.

I’ll have to have a think about which tyres to get. The getting can get very soft which means more aggressive tyres are a good thing but they’ll tear up the paddocks.

I have the tyres like Buny, our hills are heaps steeper than yours & I manage fine… most of the time.
Only had it stuck once when I got side on down a steep slope one year when it had rained for 40 days & 40 nights, it wouldn’t turn to come back up the hill, just kept going sideways across it.
I hooked up a ‘come-along’ to a fence post & winched the nose around & got it back up the hill that way.
I’ve since learned that the steering works heaps better if you reverse it up the hill.
I had proper ag tryes on the old Ford 5000 (now gone to my Bro who is a flat lander) & they fairly chewed up the paddock.

The Ford 5000 had the filler cap up on top just behind the instrument panel.
About eye height when standing beside it.
I used to hoist the 20L can up & get the nozzle in the filler & then lift/tilt the bum of the can up & rest it on my right shoulder.

Storing diesel can be a pain in the arse as it’s hydroscopic which is not good for the engine, either use a lot or drain the storage tank on a regular basis and don’t rely on the engine filters to get rid of the water and check them regularly.
I fill ours up then just top up with the 10l as required.
The industrial tyres or R51’s are almost as good as ag and do not tear up the ground, they are even quite gentle in the sand arena, turf tyres are bloody useless unless you just want a big lawnmower.

The BX has 2 fuel filter, one is easy to get at, the other not so, better without the deck mower attached.
I run mine til it is just about out of fuel & I I don’t fill it before I park it.
I change all the filters every 500hours, they are due again now but I might be trading it so it can wait.

Ag tyres are designed to give traction on soft soil when ploughing. IE you’ve basically thrown an anchor out the back of the tractor and need enough traction to be able to turn the soil over with it. If you’re just slashing, moving soil or bales etc you’d be better off with industrial tyres… They give better grip on hard surfaces and won’t chew he grass up as much, especially on turns.



Thanks. I do plan to run a chisel plough over the paddocks to deal with the compaction of the horses.

I can time the ploughing to when the ground is soft, so it won’t be like ripping clay

A chisel plough isn’t nearly as much load as a mouldboard or disc plough so you should be fine with industrial tyres. You can always water ballast your tyres for some extra traction if required.

@jmick said in Toys:

water ballast your tyres

Have on mine, to lower the centre of gravity.



It arrived. It passed the sniff test.

But did it pass the piss on the wheels test?
I see number plates, what does rego cost?

last edited by bunyip

Rego is $70 a year but you have to pay stamp duty on it which was $1500 as well as put a mirror and flashing light on it.

It just makes it more useful if I can drive on the road. I’ve got a quarry just up the road and can pick up my own topping when I need some.

Nice looking bit of gear.

… and just a bit jealous. :)

How fast does it go?

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